Greenland, Skjoldungen Fjord, Saturday, 18 July 2026

In the early hours (the sun rises at 3am and sets at midnight) we were still in heavy fog, where no horizon could be distinguished. Later we awoke to a fairly smooth sail into this enormous fjord with towering, fog-shrouded mountains on either side. After a quick workout and a nice light breakfast, I did a lot of laundry, socks and underwear, as we are now 7 days into our trip. Thankfully we have an excellent travel clothesline of braided nylon with tiny little clothespins.

Lars did a wonderful introduction to Greenlandic culture, taking us through the history of the Independent, Dorset, Viking, and Thule immigrations over the past 5,000 years. There were periods we]hen no expel lived here for a few hundred years, as when the weather cooled people moved away, when it warmed, they came over from Canada and Alaska. Almost 90% of the people in Greenland are Inuit, descended from the Thule people (including Lars), the rest are mostly Danish and some other Europeans.For a few thousand years, the early inhabitants were hunter-gatherers, living in sod and ice houses, with everything made from the animals they hunted. Metal tools came to them much later, as did the somewhat forced Christian conversion during Danish rule. Lars himself is part Inuit, part European, and he noted that he endured some teasing because of this. He also highlighted to delicate tattoos that women had, which symbolized various milestones such as starting to menstruate, being married, and having a child, and how these were coming back.

The scenery outside had become quite stunning, glaciers, waterfalls, enormous icebergs, and mountains. The scale is enormous, and as we went up the fjord, the mountains got taller and the icebergs even bigger. An afternoon Zodiac ride took us closer to several waterfalls, an area with Iceland gulls and Eider ducks, some caves, a small rocky beach, and gave us views of an enormous, 100-foot-tall face of the glacier. It was brisk out, about 42º, and during the ride we were met by another Zodiac with some of the culinary staff in it who had hot chocolate and various liqueurs. Yesterday and the day before we returned from Zodiacs to cute little sugar cookies decorated as terns or seals, very creative and appropriate.

Boris did a wonderful lecture on cetaceans, whales of all types, including his imitations of whale sounds. Next was the polar plunge, jumping into the freezing water here, just above the Arctic Circl. Barney convinced me to do this.

Greenland, Similiiaq Fjord, Friday, 17 July 2026

Overnight we sailed to Greenland, and we awoke to brilliant sunshine, mountains, and truly immense icebergs. The captain promised it would be as spectacular as Antarctica, and he was right. The bizarre and unearthly shapes of the huge icebergs captivated us, I can’t even remember how many photos I took as these icebergs looks different from different angles due to how they weather and shift in the water.

We headed up Simiilaq fjord, again surrounded by mountains and glaciers and very little greenery. One breathtaking columnar iceberg looked like an immense penis (which was noticed by everyone), and the captain made sure everyone had a chance to photograph it. We landed in the Zodiacs on a deserted rocky beach, where we could walk fairly freely. We had to stay inside a perimeter defined by the staff, who carry firearms as there is a very small but real risk of polar bears. We walked from one end to the other, observing some interesting animal poops (which we later learned were from geese) and where a large pool of water perfectly reflected a large peak. After we returned to the ship, we kept our gear on, as we went out soon on a zodiac cruise. Since we were the last in line and only 10 people can go in a zodiac, we were all by ourselves with Boris the wonderful naturalist we met in Antarctica. This was a real thrill. We went to a rocky cliff where Iceland Gulls were nesting, and the Glaucus Gulls were flying around, ready to steal eggs; they are predators, somewhat larger than the Iceland Gulls. We went by a large iceberg which had a loud popping noice going on, as the air bubbles came to the surface. We also saw a rather unique iceberg which had rolled over, so part of it was the blue that is usually beneath the water and part was the typical white. Another iceberg had two huge holes in it, water had poured through the first hole and then created a second hole. It was such fun to have a truly knowledgeable person guiding us, and he told us about some of his (and Eva’s) other expeditions they’ve done in Arctic and Antarctic area, Alaska, and also Baja, and he said they might also do some wildlife trips in Africa; they are based in Colorado.

In the evening, we attended the Cook’s Nook Zero Waste dinner, a 7 course special dinner that everyone is invited to once on the trip. It was designed to showcase parts of food that are sometimes thrown away, as a model of zero-waste cooking. We started with tiny canapées featuring such unusual ingredients as potato glass (frozen then dried water that potatoes have been cooked in), leftover bits of mushroom made into confit, and kale and potato croquette. Then we had the trim ends of Albacore tuna, with artichoke three ways, crispy, confit, and mousse with Leon ponzu foam.  Then a tomato asparagus broth with tomato caviar, which the soups-chef explained they make by combining chopped tomato with agar-agar and cold oil, then pressed and shaped into tiny pearls that look like caviar and burst when you put them in your mouth. Something the chef was very proud of was the cauliflower 8 ways: caviar, grilled steak, tempura, pickled, puréed, foam, remoulade and a “scallop” made from the base of the leaves, all of which were quite good. A berry sorbet was the palate refresher. Then we had a black cod filet with a quinoa chip, carrots with hazelnut dukkha, then my favorite, duck breast with a Demi glaze on beetroot carpaccio, confit duck ravioli (delicious) with a burnt apple purée. Dessert was an apple “rock” a shell made of hardened apple Joyce filled with apple cremeux, with apple caviar, apple chips, an apple biscuit, and Pink Lady sorbet. 

We ended the evening in the lounge as usual, meeting up with our friends and joined by some new folks who were delightful. Tonight we sail a but farther Dow the east coast of Greenland. 

Dynjandi Waterfall, Iceland, 16 July 2026

Because the weather in our location in Iceland has been so wet and overcast, the Captain changed the plans, and we headed back south a bit to the Dynjandi Waterfall.  We spent some time on the bridge, where the captain told us that no other ships had gone into some of the fjords we will go to, they were not even mapped until they did this a few years ago. He likened the coast of Greenland to Antarctica, with huge glaciers and immense icebergs everywhere, and said it would be so much more stunning than overcast rainy Iceland. He and the expedition leader, Lisle Gwynn, decided that the early departure made sense. The change of plans meant that we would sail for Greenland this evening instead of on Saturday, and have an extra day and a half in Greenland.

Meanwhile, we headed up yet another magnificent fjord, surrounded by mountains and green hills, and took the Zodiacs to the rocky beach. The huge waterfall was visible from a long ways away, it is immense and quite wide at the top, very different than the Yosemite waterfalls. It is also a major tourist attraction, and when we arrived there were tour buses pulling up every few minutes; by the time we left I counted 30 in the parking lot. People of all ages including young children were making the hike. It felt a bit like the Mist Trail in Yosemite on a busy day in summer, with some people in muck boots or hiking boots and others in thin sneakers. The rocks and gravel were wet so the footing was sometimes a bit tricky, and one steep section had very tall granite steps to navigate. The overall rise was about 300 feet. There were multiple viewing spots for photos and still some people would stop in the middle of the trail to take their photos. With a huge, loud waterfall like this one, it is tempting to only look up, but looking down to see how the immense amount of water is flowing toward the sea was equally impressive. On the way down, we had a chance to see some interesting plants and multicolored lichen on the granite rocks.

Back to the ship and we enjoyed the towering walls of the fjord on the way back to the sea..  This was the Captain’s welcome reception so he introduced all of his crew leadership, and the naturalists were all dressed up a bit, the women in nice troops and the men in sport coats, not something we’ve seen before. Most of our dinners have been with John, Reuben, and Jenny, as well as other folks who join us, this evening it was Anne (underwater diver from Sweden) and Carla (biologist from Colombia), who shared some wonderful stories. John and Reuben are incredibly fun people who attract other fun people, and after dinner we all go back up to the lounge to chat, sometimes joined by the naturalists who are always interesting. This is rocking  and rolling a bit, but it should be nice to fall asleep to.

The Western Fjords, Wednesday, 15 July 2026

 The ship was rocking and rolling all night, so neither of us slept well, but we were not seasick, only unsettled. After learning how to navigate being in the bathroom together at the same time (it is small), we headed to the 8th deck for a light breakfast. We saw Jenny there, Barney had berry pancakes, and I had granola with fruit. I was not feeling great and definitely had something digestive going on, though the only thing I ate that Barney did not yesterday was a tiny cheese and vegetable sandwich during the welcome session. Definitely had to do something about that, and then went to the morning briefing, which included introductions to all the naturalists, and more about visiting Vigur Island where we will see Arctic Terns and possibly Puffins. Tried on my boots which were too small, and exchanged them downstairs; Barney’s were fine, as were both of our waterproof pants, so we are ready to go.

By lunch, I was definitely not well, so I had a bit of soup, some bread, and a banana, and hope this would clear things up. Then Barney did not feel well … shades of the Antarctica trip! We both took a nap as our Vigur Island trip was expected later in the day. The National Geographic expedition team always has a plan B and a plan C. So, plan B was a dry landing on Vigur Island to see the birds. But the storm moved and the water was very choppy, so it turned into a wet landing, meaning muck boots and waterproof pants, so plan C. The expedition team went to the site and apparently the dock etc., were underwater with the storm waves so it would have been a scuba landing, so plan D is now to go farther out the fjord and see if there is some better weather. I appreciate that they are so careful about safety, and flexible with options. 

Meanwhile, the expedition team went back to Vigur Island to bring the owners to the ship to talk to us. The couple met doing scientific work in Antarctica, came to Iceland for some additional research, fell in love, and decided to stay. They had a little boy, now 8 years old, and at some point, Vigur Island came up for sale. The island had been inhabited for centuries, mostly because the huge numbers of birds - tens of thousands of various species - deposit enough guano that the island is covered with lush green grass for grazing, very different than the surrounding rocky coast. The harvesting of down from Eider Ducks had also become a big project on the island, as well as some modest amount of tourism. Apparently, the island is incredibly well-known in Iceland, an iconic symbol of the rugged west. The previous owners, whose family had it for five generations, had offered it for $2.5M, but after having several offers, accepted  a lower offer from the couple because they wanted the scientific work and the agricultural work to continue, rather than have it be developed as a tourist location. The woman gave an incredible talk about their adventures and their life on the island, how the Eider ducks shed their down so they can warm the eggs, and then the down can later be gathered, cleaned, and sold as the finest kind of down available. After the talk, we went in for dinner, and expedition leader Lisle told us that the seas had calmed and we might in fact go ashore for a wet landing. After a quick dinner, we all suited up and headed out in the Zodiacs at about 9:30 p.m., still light because the sun goes down around midnight.

The island was lovely, green and slightly hilly, with some houses and other buildings clustered at the south end. We walked along the shoreline and saw our first Puffins, perched on the rocks, with fish grasped in their beaks just like in almost all the photos of puffins. We also saw hundreds of ducks in the water, somehow swimming in concert toward one area or another, probably alerted to the presence of food. There was a small windmill on the property, used for grinding grain, considered the oldest still in Iceland. Windmills get torn apart here by the wind, and next to the windmill, there was a children’s slide.  Farther on, we walked into the land of the Arctic Terns, who were nesting and thus very aggressive toward anyone walking nearby. We were told to take a three-foot-long stick with us and hold it above our heads to deter the birds from swooping down on us, but not to wave it around, only hold it. The hundreds of birds were indeed unhappy that we were there and did regularly dive bomb us, as well as each other. One did hit my head and Barney’s too, though not hard, still it was a bit of a shock and felt like being in Hitchcock’s movie “The Birds”. Afterwards, we went into a barn where the down was cleaned and stored, and the finished down was indeed incredibly soft. Eva, one of the naturalists, said that the Terns are by nature aggressive, even when she had been 50-60 feet away from a nest they would still dive bomb her. Another building has been set up for tourists to eat, and they had a lovely tart that folks could have a piece of, as well as water, and there was a tiny gift shop where I bought some Iceland flaked sea salt.

Back to the ship, still light out at 11 p.m., and so glad that we got to see this interesting and unusual place as our first landing. Tomorrow we backtrack a bit to near where we were going the first day, but this time to Dynjandi Falls, an immense waterfall about 300’ high which we will be able to hike to. 

Iceland, Reykjavik to the Sea, 14 July 2026

 Somehow we slept through the noise from the club below. We headed to Kaffi-O-Le for breakfast, it was in a hotel nearby, but it had only coffee and pastries, though the coffee was good. Back to the hotel to pack up and check out, and then we brought our bags to the Parliament Hotel where NatGeo had a hospitality desk. We learned that we did not need to be there at noon as we had thought, but by 3:30, which gave us a lot more time in Reykjavik. It was lightly raining on and off.

First we headed to the Cathedral, up a hill which started with the iconic rainbow-painted. It was lined with souvenir shops, sweaters everywhere, puffins, sheep, vaguely Scandinavian trolls, and more. The Cathedral plaza was occupied by a number of tour groups, and dominated a huge statue of Leif Eriksson. We went into the Cathedral, which like all Lutheran churches, was quite austere, no stained glass, no statues, no decoration, no side chapels, rather different than the Catholic cathedrals that dominate most of Europe. We walked around a bit, in awe at the huge organ (more than 5,000 pipes), and then took an elevator up 8 floors to the tower. Up four more lights of stairs, and we had a 360° view of the city underneath the 31 bells. Of course we waited for the 11:00am bells to ring which was wonderful, we felt the vibration in our bodies. It was windy and chilly in the tower, so after lots of photos, we wound our way back down.

We headed to Harpa, the big concert hall in the waterfront which is sheathed in glass that appears to be iridescent like fish scales, echoing Iceland’s longtime dominant industry. It was huge inside, and we found that there was a noontime concert we could get tickets to. The main concert hall is dark and had red lighting, to give the impression of being inside a volcano, and we sat in regular chairs on the stage instead of in the seats of the hall. What a delight! It was a father-daughter duo, he on soprano and alto so, she on piano and voice. They did a short program of some jazz, traditional Icelandic pieces, and some pieces that each of them wrote. Afterwards, we walked along the waterfront to a small restaurant called Slippbarinn (one of the places that the NatGeo folks gave us a lunch voucher for), and we had a burger. Then we walked to the City Hall and saw the giant topographical map of Iceland, which was very cool. We could spot Vik and Höfn where we’ll go at the end of the trip, and it really gave a sense of the immensity of the island, how mountainous it was, and how little flat arable land there was. It made it clear how rugged and difficult life must have been here for the first 1,100 years and even into the early 20th century.

It was time to get back to the Parliament Hotel, so we walked there and it was quite full with folks waiting. We asked if we could go on board n9w, and the hosts said we were welcome to walk there, but we could not board until 4:00. Since it had stopped raining, we connected with John, Reuben, and Jenny, and decided to walk to the ship, which was across from where their hotel was. En route, we did stop to see  lovely green sweater with puffins that Reuben liked, and we bought some puffin boot socks for Barney and some regular puffin socks for both of us.

We arrived where the ship was docked, and stood outside the gate chatting and enjoying the fresh air and final views of the waterfront. A staff member came out a bit before 4:00pm and said we could board, so we did. We knew that Eva and Ani, naturalists from the Antarctica trip, would be on board, and we saw them, they gave all of us big hugs. We also saw Boris, who we had not seen on the list, and so more hugs.  We went to our room and unpacked, it was so nice to put things into drawers and out the suitcases away.

Time to gather in the Ice Lounge for a briefing and welcome. Staff and crew were introduced, and we sat with Reuben, John, and Jenny, and happened to meet Jules, who had been on the Antarctica trip with us … we were the loud, troublemakers table in the far back. The expedition leader, Lisle, told us that the rough seas were going to make Flatey Island impossible to land on, so we would go up to the western fjords first, and then spend an extra day in Greenland, which sounds good to us. We went up to dinner and since I was feeling a bit unsettled (though the boat had not moved yet) I only had some cheese and bread and a bit of a gratin. Since it was a still Day, we sang a verse of La Marseillaise, and another guests came by to chat about France, he was from Pleasanton. Reuben is keeping a list of interesting folks to invite to another dinner at the big long table. Afterward, we went down to the bar and hung out with the group and met some new folks. Everyone is long forward to an exciting trip. We got ready for bed, closed the blackout curtains (sunset is around midnight this far north), and settled in.

Monday, 13 July 2026, Reykjavik

 We arrived in Iceland only about 15 minutes late, but the wait for passport control was quite long. Fortunately our taxi waited, and we arrived at the Hotel Borg after a nice drive. It is raining here, which we expected. We were able to check in early, and then went to The Laundromat Cafe (suggested by Madeleine) for a nice breakfast/lunch. Our hotel is across from the historic Parliament building from 1881, facing a lovely park that has become an historic gathering place for people here. 

Then, off to the. National Museum, where we enjoyed the exhibits spanning the history of Iceland from the earliest arrivals in 793 - Vikings from Norway, as the island was uninhabited until then, the collection of artifacts was really interesting, from Iron Age tools and silver hoards, to wooden carvings and vestments from the many churches once the island converted to Christianity around 1,000 CE,, through the introduction of the Lutheran faith. There was a 22’ long fishing boat with oars and sail from the 19th century which showed how exposed they were at sea, a tiny wooden house that was lived in until 1950, steel and ceramics artifacts and the first printed books here. The island was ruled by Norway for centuries, harassed by England and Germany for the rich fishing grounds, and then Denmark until independence in 1944. 

Barney’s boots were not comfortable, so we stopped at the hotel to get some moleskin. Then off to meet John and Reuben and meet John’s sister Alice, who will be on this trip. It was so nice to see them again. We had drinks at the rooftop bar of their hotel overlooking the harbor, then a nice dinner at a small restaurant also on the water. A large ship left as we watched, and an enormous coast Buard ship took up much of the harbor along with fishing boats. 

We had managed to stay up until 9;00pm, and so despite what sounded like a noisy yet fairly lame comedy show going on in the bar next door, we got to sleep and had a good night’s rest.

Leaving for Iceland and Greenland, 12 July 2026

Barney and I are headed to Iceland and Greenland! 

I have been working like crazy to finish a number of major work deadlines the last week weeks, capped by a 5-hour board retreat for a client yesterday. Whew. I finally started packing in the afternoon and doing the many things that were on my list. I finally finished shortly before midnight - a new record for me, as I am usually up until 3:00am the night before we go on vacation. When Madeleine was young, we used to joke that our family motto was, “you can always sleep on the plane,” and sure enough, we did.

We took BART to SFO which went smoothly - we are so lucky to not have to drive to the airport. We had purchased a sandwich at Market Hall en route to BART which we shared at the gate, so things have been relatively relaxed. So far I have only remembered one thing I forgot to do (water the indoor plants, I did everything outdoors), luckily Madeleine will stop by and do that after work. We have a first-class flight to Portland (not our choice, the last available) and then business class to Reykjavik. We’ll have most of a day there before we leave on the ship to go up the coast. We are looking forward to seeing a wonderful couple we met on our Antarctica trip, John and Reuben from Sydney, Australia, who will also be on this trip, with John’s sister. We’ll see them for dinner tomorrow evening. For now, we’re waiting to board, and watching a few videos of Marley at the dog sitter’s where he enjoys his buddies there and lots of walks. I miss him already.