Paris, 11 December 2025

We got up at 6:00am, had breakfast, and got ready to leave. Catherine went down with us, and we found the taxi waiting. Then a 10-minute argument ensued between Catherine and the taxi driver, as the taxi company had not mentioned the extra charge for luggage (a few Euros). She felt it was a point of principle and after talking to three people on the phone at the taxi company, they finally agreed to the original price and off we went. Catherine is a brilliant and persistent person, and she was not going to give up with that taxi driver! 

It was seriously foggy and traffic was slow, but we had left extra early, so once we arrived we checked in and went to the gate. There we saw a cute little robot that had recycling and trash containers and moved around the seating area.

I got some chocolates for colleagues at the office, and we boarded our flight. Even though the fog delayed our departure, everything went smoothly and we arrived on time in Chicago. We went quickly through customs (thank you Global Access card!), and while waiting for our bags, some beagles came by to sniff our carryons for food and other items. They were cute but also very serious. We had a long trek to the domestic terminal and we arrived just as our flight to SFO was boarding. This was an older plane, with only first-class and economy, so we were feeling pretty squeezed after flying business class to Paris and premium economy from Paris to Chicago. Luckily we had slept on the earlier flight, and we watched a movie together.

We got our bags and headed to BART, feeling pretty tired, and got on the train. As we settled in and turned on our phones again, there was a message from Madeleine asking where we were. Slightly alarmed, we texted back, "on BART headed home." She said she was on her way to the airport to pick us up - a lovely surprise - so we got off at the next station, turned around and went back on another train, and met her in the parking lot. So nice to have a ride home with her and get to share updates. She had been staying at our home and taking care of Marley these past two weeks, and after all the travel, we were indeed glad to get home.

Paris, 10 December 2025

Our last day in Paris, sigh. A quiet morning, we started to put together our suitcases and packing gifts for the return trip tomorrow morning.

We took the 21 bus to the Tuileries and walked through the Marche de Noel again, this time getting a large raclette sandwich that we split, with some fries (why are the fries so good in France?). We got some macarons to bring home, and enjoyed the holiday spirit there. Since the weather was nice (in the 50s) we ate in the garden, and some inquisitive little birds came right up to us looking for food. I gave one bird a tiny french fry and from then on he thought he owned the bench. As we finished, some other birds approached, we put a few crumbs on the bench which he gobbled up, and when the other birds approached for theirs, he fought them off quite vociferously. We walked further in the gardens until the Place de la Concorde.

We decided to go to the Musée de l'Orangerie where Monet's huge water lilies paintings are, we had not been there since our 1997 trip with Barney’s parents. Unfortunately we had not gotten tickets ahead of time so we had about a half hour wait to get in, but it was worth it. Seeing these magnificent paintings again with no time constraint was wonderful. While most people walked by or took videos of the paintings, we sat and contemplated them, enjoying the subtle variations of the colors and brushstrokes. These painting are truly a national treasure, and nothing can replace seeing them in person. What a treat this was.

We then took the metro to another St. James store in the Marais to look for the sweater I was interested in. While I decided I did not want one after all, we did find the other one Madeleine wanted and got that for her for Christmas. It was nice walking through the narrow old streets of the Marais again, and as we strolled along, seeing many folks coming home from work, we got a few more chocolates at a small store, and we headed south to the Ile St Louis for old times’ sake. Walking along the north side of Notre Dame still mostly covered with scaffolding brought back more memories of that 1997 trip, including when Mary walked into an almost invisible glass door separating two souvenir shops, falling down and getting a black eye (luckily she was not hurt more badly). 

We decided to stop for an aperitif at the little restaurant we had gone to several times during that 1997 trip, which was just as charming as we remembered it. We walked up the main street, the rue de Ile St Louis, and found the building that we were staying in in 1997. We bought some pastries for breakfast at the little boulangerie across the street, where Madeleine went during that trip on our last day to buy a pain au chocolate all by herself, age 7! What a wonderful memory. 

It was time to head back and go to our last dinner, with Alexandra Choquet. We hurried to catch the 21 bus back to Catherine’s and who was on the bus but Martine, Catherine’s friend at whose place we have stayed a few times, and Isabel Catherine’s sister! We had a nice but brief chat, what a lucky coincidence. Back to Catherine’s to change and then a quick 15 minute hike to a restaurant called Le Verbelon to see Alexandra and her son Louis. It was great to see her again too, after five years, and Louis is now about to graduate from college with a degree in architecture. This was a very authentic bistro on rue Tolbiac, with only a chalkboard menu in French. We split a butternut squash tart to start, then Barney and I had a delicious hare stew with mashed parsnips, and split a profiterole. It was nice to catch up with Alexandra, she continues to enjoy her medical work at the senior home. Her older son Antoine is in marketing in Brussels, and the youngest, Benoit is training to become an actor. We had a fun time talking about travel and future plans. Again, another wonderful friend we made who had given us a look at another way of life. 

Walking back to the apartment we realized what a busy and socially fulfilling trip this has been. We packed our suitcases, realizing we had an amazing number of gifts and books etc. to take home, but luckily we had underpacked so we had plenty of space. After a final long chat with Catherine, during which she called to order am 8:00am taxi for us, we headed to bed to get up early for our departure. 

Paris, 9 December 2025

Another late morning, relaxing. 

Today we planned to go to CityPharma, the famous cosmetics and beauty pharmacy which sells all the top brands for low prices ... we have list from Madeleine of some things she would like so we have a purpose in going.  

But first we went into St Germain des Pres, the oldest church in Paris. I love its polychrome columns and ceiling. This was the first time we had been in a church during a sunny day, and the the light poured in through the stained glass windows, projecting rainbows of color across the columns, it was so beautiful. 

Then off to the pharmacy, which was packed in tiny aisles about one person wide, though Catherine said it was much worse in the summer as it is famous among tourists. Luckily there were many people to help us find what we were looking for, and it was so packed and warm I couldn’t wait to get out to the fresh air. On the sidewalk we saw an amazing piece of public art, which appeared to be an explosion from underneath with a fountain, that looked rather like a skateboard ramp. 

We headed to Montparnasse station, where there was a St. James store, to get a sweater for Madeleine  the one we had gotten her years ago at Mont St Michel had worn through. After some try-ons (trying on wool sweaters indoors when I was already warm was not fun but I persevered), we found one that was what she wanted, and we ended up getting a pullover shirt for Barney, too.

Catherine headed home, and we were off to the Rodin Museum, which we had been to many years ago. Located in a large old mansion, there are some penthouse apartments across the street ... I wondered at the beautiful view they must have of the extensive gardens. The gardens are filled with casts of many of Rodin's most famous sculptures, including "The Kiss", "The Thinker", and "The Burghers of Calais".

Next, back to Catherine's, to change for our big dinner at the restaurant Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. We had made a reservation at this gilded, well-known restaurant, and luckily Anne (Catherine's daughter) was able to join us. We had a wonderful dinner, framed by the festive, theatrical presentation by the staff. While our reservation was at 7:00pm when they first open, by 8:00pm it was completely full and busy. The huge dining room was crowned by huge, beautiful paintings of the many locations that the trains from this station use to travel to, mostly in southern and central France. It was truly a feast, with all kinds of elaborate serving, like the crepes suzette for the table next door with a huge flame going up several feet. Our Baba au Rhum dessert was delicious, and when they poured the rum over it, Barney asked if they could give us a glass, and the waiter left the whole decanter! After desserts and coffee, we headed back to Catherine's. It had been a very full and wonderful day.