Paris to Lyon, Tuesday, 2 December 2025

We woke up early to repack into one suitcase, as Catherine prepared to leave for Poitou. We had some time to relax and read, which was rather nice. Then off to the Gare de Lyon via Metro, which worked very smoothly, and we loaded into our first-class compartment, which was so nice and roomy. Barney and I read the whole way, as it gets dark so quickly at this time of year. The train was so fast, and we got to Lyon in two hours, amazing. 

Davidson met us at the train, and took us on foot to their wonderful apartment in the 2nd arrondissement. On their apartment on the first floor in the back, they actually have room for 8 people (though only one bathroom). We had some wine and cheese which was nice. They took us to a very traditional Lyonnaise restaurant called Abel, which had delicious salads and Bourguignon which was wonderful.  Tired from a long day although we did not really do much, we came back to the apartment to get to bed early.

Paris, Monday, 1 December 2025

 Up fairly early for a vacation Dy (much later than a normal workday), we head to the Louvre for our big day there. I had gotten what I hoped were the correct tickets for the David exhibit, since we had our Museum pass and Catherine has her educator’s pass which gives her free entry to many museums. I had done this online and really hoped I had done it correctly. The courtyard by the pyramid was packed with people and groups, as it was a school day. It also turned out that there had been a big meeting of all the staff about security, which meant that the opening was delayed. We lucked into finding a staffer who was setting out the sign for the 11:00am reservations, so we tagged along with her and were third in line. Because the opening was delayed, she said we would be delayed about half an hour. It was cold out, about 42 degrees, but we were prepared. While waiting in line we met a nice young couple from Seville, Spain, and a couple from Arizona, who ended up also speaking Spanish with the folks from Spain. There was an American couple behind us but they did not join the conversation and mostly seemed very grumpy. Time went on, many people came to look at the sign, and seeing their faces as they realized that the this was the front of the extremely long line (it went the length of the Pyramid and curved around the back) became quite the show. Then it was 11:30, and nothing happened with our line, but we saw another line on the other side of the pyramid moving. Catherine went over and learned that it was the 10:30 line, delayed because of the late opening, and we would be next. Then a staffer came over and told us to follow him to enter and we all ran after him, as a few after folks tried to cut in line but Catherine glared at them and they moved back. Then we moved into the back-and-forth weave of the entry line (like Disneyland) as we watched the 10:30 group go ahead of us. Then another group started to go in, and Catherine asked what time their reservation was and a few people showed her the papers with 11:30, and she complained to the the young staffer holding our line. After about 15 minutes more of that line going by us, folks were getting restive, and Catherine complained again to the young staffer that we had 11:00am reservations, but he said he was told to do this. Finally we saw the original staffer who brought us over, and another who had a radio and was clearly senior, and Catherine went over and complained to them. The staffer who brought us over then came and opened the rope holding our group back and people cheered for Catherine! The woman from Arizona said “she is amazing!” And of course I agreed. And we all moved forward toward security and the entrance. 

Once inside, we needed to orient ourselves and get to the David exhibit, as it was now 12:30 and we were late for our time, though I figured they would give s a break given the late opening. Went went to the Sully wing where the David exhibit was and passed right through with our tickets. I was so happy I had done the ticketing correctly! The exhibit itself was wonderful, showing his early work as he created a new style of mythological and Greek and Roman historical painting (of the style appreciated by the Academie), then his Revolutionary period (he became active in politics and was one of the hundreds of deputies who voted to execute the king), and made a number of very patriotic paintings. His famous painting “The Death of Marat” was on display, from the period of the Terror when he was jailed for a while, as many of his fellow original revolutionaries were held to account and often executed. He eventually was released and became a fan of Napoleon, creating the famous work of a heroic Napoleon on a white horse crossing the Alps in winter; in fact he crossed on a mule, hardier than a horse, and it was pretty miserable. He also painted the enormous work of the crowning of Napoleon as Emperor, when he took the crown from the Pope, crowned himself, and then took the crown for his wife Josephine who became Empress (this painting was in its original home upstairs, too large to move). David then moved into a period of portraits of leading intellectuals and family. Afterwards we went up to the gallery where the crowning of Napoleon was displayed, spending some time just observing and admiring the incredible detail in this huge work which was about 40’ by30’, and with an enormous mirror opposite the painting which is how it was displayed when Napoleon first saw it. Many people stopped by, tried to take a photo of the whole enormous painting, and when that was not possible, juts snapped what they could get and moved on. For the last part of our day, went spent time in the Italian painting gallery, where throngs of tourists walked by the four Leonardo da Vinci paintings to go to the gallery where the Mona Lisa is now displayed.  It was amazing to see the huge crowd there, cell phones aloft, trying to take selfies over the heads of other tourists. How sad that they missed the da Vincis, the Raphaels, the Titians, and so much more. We stayed until the Louvre closed.

Afterwards, we went out to the Tuileries, where a large Christmas market and carnival were open and busy. We got some vin chaud (hot mulled wine) and walked the length of the garden, seeing the many food and gift booths along with some carnival rides for children and adults, and some life size singing reindeer doing Christmas carols which were both funny and with quite good music. We found a booth selling tartiflette, a potato and cheese traditional dish, often with bacon or sausage added. We got a truffled one and and another with a sausage, and ate standing up at the bar with some champagne. As it was getting colder, we bought some things for lunch the next next day and headed back. We have to repack for our trip to Lyon tomorrow to consolidate into a single bag. I had more than 15,000 steps!

Paris, Sunday, 30 November 2025

After a nice breakfast, we headed out for a day of errands with Catherine. First stop was the huge and beautifully-decorated classic department store La Samaritaine, to get a replacement lipstick for the special holder Madeleine had which was personalized by Alexandra some years ago. Finding the Guerlain shop, we learned that this was of course discontinued, the new lipsticks would not fit the old holder, and we were not sure about getting a new holder as it would not be a personalized memento. Texting Madeleine, she affirmed that she would not want the new one. We went to another section for some beauty items for Catherine, then up to the 5th floor for a lovely view of the restored paintings and the many floors of lights below, very festive. 

Next stop was BHV, the home decor and hardware store. First we looked for a new strainer for the sink in Catherine’s bathroom, but they were out of them. Catherine later found the correct one at a nearby bricollage, a hardware store, and Barney installed it when we got back. We also looked at new, battery-powered lights as the light in her original medicine cabinet no longer worked; we found some options but she was not quite ready to buy one yet. Realizing that she did not have her phone, and being understandably anxious, she left to head home. We walked to St. Eustache to hear the organ audition (an informal concert) and check out the Christmas market. Catherine called and let us know that her phone was indeed at home, a huge relief. We got to St. Eustache, near les Halles, but no Christmas market as yet. We went to the church, one of the largest in  Paris, built in 1532 in the Flamboyant Gothic style. We arrived just as the concert started, and enjoyed some wonderful music in the packed church. Like other churches, there was a large Nativity scene, and we lit a candle for our departed family and friends, and purchased a special one for Larry.

After the concert, we went to rue Daguerre, where Catherine has one of her favorite places, the Cafe de Daguerre which she calls “headquarters” and where she often meets friends. We’ll go there with her another tine. We stayed near here once, and this small street is filled with gourmet shops of all types. We bought some mini-cannele and a baguette and Barney got a bottle of wine. Meanwhile, Catherine was ordering sushi and we met her downstairs of her building to pick up dinner. After listening to a French news show she likes - a real test for our French, I think I got about every 10th word - we ended a busy day.

Paris, 27-29 November 2025

 For the first time since January 2020, we are headed back to Paris. We saved up our points so we could fly business class to Paris (economy on the way back), which was very nice as we could stretch out and sleep. We took a taxi to Catherine’s place where she welcomed us warmly as always. After settling in, we went to Catherine’s favorite bakery, and to a shop nearby for some yogurt and granola for breakfast. Then we went with Catherine to get some transit tickets, and learned when we got on the bus and our tickets were rejected, that there are two different tickets you have to load, one for busses and one for the Metro which is more expensive. The bus driver waved us on, so we rode the 21 to the Latin Quarter and went to the Cluny Museum for a few hours. We walked through the exhibits, so familiar yet always something new to discover. The heads of the kings of Judah, originally on Notre Dame, were removed after the revolution and rediscovered more than 100 years later in the foundation of a coal market not far from Catherine’s, and they were brought to the then-new medieval museum. Of course we spent some time in my favorite place, with the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which always provide new details and insights. I could have spent hours there, but we needed to keep moving to stay awake. 

We headed out in the light rain to Notre Dame, restored and reopened about a year ago. It was still crowded but the line moved quickly. We settled in the section for the faithful in time for vespers, with lovely music, and got to hear the organ. Afterwards we walked around and marveled at the transformation. The interior was now a creamy beige instead of gray, so much lighter and brighter. The polychrome areas have been repainted brightly, and the altar is modern and stunning. Because the sun sets so early, around 5pm, there was no light through the stained glass but we will come back during the daytime another day. We head out into the dark, and pass by a small Christmas market by the Seine with all sorts of little booths, and animal figures like polar bears and penguins surrounded by greenery. Back to the Metro to head back to Catherine’s for a light dinner. She had made spinach and feta in phyllo with some appetizers, and head to bed about 9pm. Although we both woke up few times we managed to sleep until morning.

We woke up about 7am on Saturday morning, made breakfast and chatted about the day. Catherine had plans to see a friend who is recovering from surgery, so off we went to Barney’s favorite museum, the Musée d’Orsay, which houses the Impressionists and related period artists. We visited the early 1860s era artists and the special exhibit of the sculptor Troubetzkoy, who I had not heard of and made heroic bronzes. He was a vegetarian and kept wolves as pets, and made a sculpture of a lamb titled “Why do you want to eat me?” Then we went up to the 5th floor for a light lunch, quiche and salmon salad, and had a nice view out the giant clock. Then off to the many galleries on the 5th floor of the ImpressIronists, so many fabulous and famous paintings, and so many people. The Monet series of Rouen Cathedral, his water lilies, are oil’s gatherings of dancers and families, Callibotte’s famous floor scrapers, and so much more. Sadly, many people today seem to think that visiting a musuem means taking mobile phone photos of every picture and description without really looking at the painting, and they do not hesitate to stick their phones in front of you while you are looking. I have to admit that a few times I stayed in front of a favorite painting right in the center so the photo-grabbers could not get a good picture. Near the end of the day, we headed out again in the rain, walking through the festively-decorated neighborhood, to take the bus home. Catherine was tired from her day, so we had leftovers with some soup, had a nice chat, and went to bed early.

Ushuaia to Home, Thursday to Friday, 13-14 March 2025

We woke up early and got our luggage out and had a final quick breakfast. We took a bus into central Ushuaia, had a tour of the local museum. The museum had been a prison when Ushuaia was a British prison colony (rather like Australia), to the museum has small wings radiating out from a central area which were, for the most part, the actual cells that prisoners were housed in. In addition to maritime history, local history, and of course prison history and various wars etc., it also had a small contemporary art exhibition. he bus brought us back downtown, where most of us got Ushuaia stamps in our passports and walked around the main street of town. After much searching I finally found a nice Antarctica baseball hat for Larry! We went to the hotel that was our gathering place, where a light buffet was available, and then we were called in groups to the buses to head to the airport. Off we went on the charter flight to Buenos Aires, arriving around dinner time. At that point there were more goodbyes as folks either went to transfer to connections, or for some, into Buenos Aires to stay the night and wait for connections the next day.  

We headed to our flight to Houston, which went smoothly, and then customs in Houston, and then transfer to San Francisco. Arriving in SFO we reclaimed our luggage - hooray - and took BART home, giving us a little time to re-acclimate. It was a 28-hour journey for the three flights, but I was glad to be home, midday. We did a little grocery shopping (we had tried to eat everything perishable before we left), started doing laundry (8 loads eventually) and opened a giant bag of mail. It had been rather nice to be away from daily life, cooking, cleaning, email, errands, for these past three weeks. And what an adventure it was! Truly the trip of a lifetime.

Falklands to Ushuaia, Wednesday, 12 March 2025

We had some wonderful final lectures for the naturalists, and did the packing. Our final dinner with the gang was so much fun, we are so lucky to ahve made these wonderful new friends who helped mkae this trip such a blast. 

Three weeks in this room passed quickly! We managed to get our parkas and jackets in the suitcases - just barely. Luckily we did not buy much beyond pins and yarn and baseball hats, so that all packed fine. We will have to have our bags out at 6:00am and leave soon after.

The seas were relatively calm and we headed to bed early for the early wakeup.

Falkland Islands, Tuesday, 11 March 2025

Today was our final day in the Falklands, and it has been an adventure. Last night remained very windy and choppy, but we were able to sleep and get up ready to go on our final day of being ashore. The morning expedition took us to West Point Island with large number of Gentoos and Rockhoppers ... I will never tire of seeing their amusing walking style on land. By now the Base Camp suit up and zodiac routine is second nature. It is hard to believe that soon we will be leaving the Falklands and heading to Ushuaia and home. We went to the spectacular Devil's Nose area, which involved a very long hike from a boggy landing through high tufted grass to a rocky descent to a large beach. The tall grasses were filled with Gentoo penguins nearby and in the distance. We finally arrived at the albatross colony, a real thrill after seeing them fly by the ship on their enormous wings (8' wingspan), and got to see many chicks ready to fledge, occasionally being fed by parents. The fledglings are quite large, about the size of a 4-5 pound chicken at the butcher. The penguins and albatross were mixed together, and we were able to get fairly close (still 2-3m away) because we were in the tall grass. Seeing the albatross adults soar over us was amazing. 

After lunch, we went out for our final expedition, landing at Marie-Paul and Luc's land called Grave Cove, which they allow National Geo folks to cross. We hiked to the beach, down a rocky slope, where I almost fell, for the third time on this hike, but managed to catch myself, it would have been a nasty fall on the rocks. The hiking sticks have been hugely helpful. The Rockhoppers and Gentoos were deep into their molting stage and looked kind of miserable. There was a sea lion in the shallow water attacking penguins one after the other, Reuben called him the serial killer - as he would attack a penguin and kind of toss it away without even eating it. A bit gruesome. The stunning black and white bird called Johnny Rooks (striated caracara) were flying close overhead. Hiking back seemed a lot easier.

It was a little bittersweet at dinner with our group, knowing that this was our last expedition together. As everyone on board was invited to submit 4-6 photos, the combined slide show of about 20 minutes was spectacular, some incredible photos, places and wildlife I didn't see, it was wonderful to see this.