Paris, 9 December 2025

Another late morning, relaxing. 

Today we planned to go to CityPharma, the famous cosmetics and beauty pharmacy which sells all the top brands for low prices ... we have list from Madeleine of some things she would like so we have a purpose in going.  

But first we went into St Germain des Pres, the oldest church in Paris. I love its polychrome columns and ceiling. This was the first time we had been in a church during a sunny day, and the the light poured in through the stained glass windows, projecting rainbows of color across the columns, it was so beautiful. 

Then off to the pharmacy, which was packed in tiny aisles about one person wide, though Catherine said it was much worse in the summer as it is famous among tourists. Luckily there were many people to help us find what we were looking for, and it was so packed and warm I couldn’t wait to get out to the fresh air. On the sidewalk we saw an amazing piece of public art, which appeared to be an explosion from underneath with a fountain, that looked rather like a skateboard ramp. 

We headed to Montparnasse station, where there was a St. James store, to get a sweater for Madeleine  the one we had gotten her years ago at Mont St Michel had worn through. After some try-ons (trying on wool sweaters indoors when I was already warm was not fun but I persevered), we found one that was what she wanted, and we ended up getting a pullover shirt for Barney, too.

Catherine headed home, and we were off to the Rodin Museum, which we had been to many years ago. Located in a large old mansion, there are some penthouse apartments across the street ... I wondered at the beautiful view they must have of the extensive gardens. The gardens are filled with casts of many of Rodin's most famous sculptures, including "The Kiss", "The Thinker", and "The Burghers of Calais".

Next, back to Catherine's, to change for our big dinner at the restaurant Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. We had made a reservation at this gilded, well-known restaurant, and luckily Anne (Catherine's daughter) was able to join us. We had a wonderful dinner, framed by the festive, theatrical presentation by the staff. While our reservation was at 7:00pm when they first open, by 8:00pm it was completely full and busy. The huge dining room was crowned by huge, beautiful paintings of the many locations that the trains from this station use to travel to, mostly in southern and central France. It was truly a feast, with all kinds of elaborate serving, like the crepes suzette for the table next door with a huge flame going up several feet. Our Baba au Rhum dessert was delicious, and when they poured the rum over it, Barney asked if they could give us a glass, and the waiter left the whole decanter! After desserts and coffee, we headed back to Catherine's. It had been a very full and wonderful day.