This was a busy, packed day! Tuesday the 26th of July. Quebec-Ville was about 5-7 degrees cooler than Montreal so a bit more comfortable. We arose early and decided to head first to the Cathedral, then to the Musée, then we would see what was next. We took the funicular up, which was nice, but voila, the Cathedral was closed for the week! We thought this might have to do with the arrival of the Pope the next day, who was in Canada for apologies and discussions with First Nation peoples. Everywhere in the upper town there were barricades along the sidewalks for this event. Across the street from the Cathedral was the Christmas shop, so we went in and found some commemorative ornaments to take home, and one for Larry as well. It was obviously very popular with tourists, as one of the staff spoke to one person in French, to Barney in English, and to another person in what I think was Mandarin. We decided we needed a snack and found a little bakery-cafe and got a jambon-bechamel croissant, and we sat on the nearby retaining wall of a different church to refresh. We then walked to the luthier shop Madeleine had recommended. As soon as we walked in the smell of wood and varnish was wonderful, and the small front area was filled with violins, violas, cellos, and contrabasses. The owner was very nice, said all of the instruments were by other makers, his were done by special order and there were none in the shop. We admired his work, and then took a walk to I think rue St-Paul and headed for the Musem via the bus #11.
The Musée National des beaux arts is near the River but west of the old town area. The entry was very modern, and the museum itself spanned five buildings, connected underground. We first head to the top floor for the Inuit art as Madeleine suggested, and it was incredible. The works expressed Inuit values of community, family, connection to nature, shamans and spirits, and more. Using indigenous materials such as whale vertebrae, soapstone, ivory and more, there were dancing musk ox, a walrus playing a drum, families fishing, shamans transforming into animals. One of the most stunning pieces was a polar bear sculpture, doubled as if looking at his reflection. Truly worth the visit and we learned a lot. There was an outdoor sculpture terrace nearby. Before we went out, we saw a large bee struggling, exhausted, against the window. Barney picked it up with the museum map and brought it outside where it flew instantly. There were several hives on the terrace, so we were glad to help it out the door.
Time for lunch at the museum cafe, run by a local chef. Barney had a lamb burger and I had a quinoa bowl with shredded duck and strawberries, and we both had some of each other’s as well, plus a créme brûlée that was delicious. We were by the window with a nice view outside … the sky began to be very overcast so we thought it might rain. We crossed over underground, and saw an exhibit of one Inuit artist whose works were amazing - I remembered one large whale vertebrae called “The Sacred Owl Bringing Clarity from Confusion,” every inch covered with human and animal and bird images all intertwined. We then went to the permanent collection, which has themes like becoming, creating, rebelling, imagining, and the works were roughly from 1700-1980. We were struck by the late 19th-early 20th century work of Canadian artists, clearly influenced by Impressionists, some of whom had trained in France. One artist, William Clapp, had works that were quite beautiful, early Monet-like, and while born in Montreal, it turned out that he died in Oakland, I will have to find out more about him.
Then we decided to go to The Citadel, the large military fort on the river edge. I checked the website, it was 4:30, the last tour was at 5:00, and the map said it would take us 25 minutes to walk there, so off we went along George VI Avenue very fast. On the way we saw the huge stage set up we that for a concert, but then realized it was where the Pope would be speaking the next day. Several entries to the Citdel were thus blocked but at last we hurried in, and got tickets for the last tour. Our guide was named Yolanda and she asked that we call her by her nickname “Yo.” She gave a wonderful tour of the active military base and the home of the Canadian 22nd, which had distinguished itself in many battles beginning in WWI, with names of battles on the various buildings. Built after the war of 1812, the citadel itself was never attacked, and the river side was 300’ above the water and well-protected. The Governor-General was in residence for the Papal visit, the first-ever Indigenous woman in the role.
Everywhere were preparations for the Pope’s visit, including the cancellation of many busses, so we walked back down the hill. We freshened up after a fairly warm day and changed clothes. We walked again to the funicular and went to the upper town, and we had dinner reservations at Restaurant aux Anciens Canadiens, in the oldest house in Quebec-Ville. The restaurant attracted many tourists, and the prix fixe meal was incredibly filling. This was my second meat pie in two days, the Tortiere was huge and I could not finish it, and neither of us had room for the included dessert. Usually we split an appetizer, each order a main, and then split a dessert. Servings in Quebec are clearly large we now realize. As we walked home to the port in the lower town, we met an Indian family who asked if they were going the right direction to get to the Cathedral, we told them it was closed, and then they told us they were so glad to be there for Pope’s visit, clearly excited. This was going to be a very big deal for Quebec-Ville, which last had a Papal visit in 1984. After a very long day with a lot of walking, we were ready to pack and depart the next morning
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