Up early today at 6:30am for a quick breakfast and then getting ready for the early excursion which I feel well enough to go to (with my mask on of course). About 8:30 we went up to the bridge (which is open), and spotted a pod of orcas up ahead. There were probably 50 people on the bridge and we were all looking forward to see them. It was a pod of about 10, diving and surfacing, everyone was thrilled. This moved the start of the excursion back about an hour, as they stayed with us a while.
The original plan, Devils’s Island in the morning and James Ross Island in the afternoon, was changed because of the weather, especially the winds.we are headed toward the Bernardo O’Higgins base (Chilean). This was my first time suiting up and doing the while boot and waterproof pants and double jacket and hat and mittens routine. Our Zodiac driver, Typhanie, steered us toward a group of chinstrap penguins, covered most of a hilly snowy area. They are now in the middle or toward the end of their catastrophic molt, waiting for their full set of feathers so they can return to the sea to feed. Some had quite a bit of fluff on their backs, one had a Mohawk on the top of his head. Many were sunning themselves so we saw their black backs as they absorbed the sun’s warmth. We turned about 90° toward another small island, saw a group of Gentoo penguins, also molting, and a group of male sea lions, in that typical head up sea lion pose. The mating season is over, and during that time they do not eat as they are busy protecting their harem and their territory. Now they are feeding and regaining weight. We also saw some shags, a white bird called the Snowy Sheathbill, and some long-necked cormorants. At some point, I just want to watch them, as I know my photography is limited with the iPhone. Barney took some great photos.
After a nice lunch, it was time for the afternoon excursion, which I decided to forego per the doctor’s suggestion and rest a bit, and Barney went with the group. I settled in the Library which has a lovely view off the bow, and started reading my new book. I also played the piano a bit, the accompaniment to “ Must the Winter Come So Soon?” from Vanessa, which I will want to sing at least once on this trip. Later I went back and took a very long nap.
Barney went on the Zodiac and hiking trip to Astrolabe Island. It was cold, windy, and snowing and the fog had come in, almost impossible to see the landing spot. The guide made a high speed transit across the bay to see a leopard seal, which was also going away from the wind. They saw some chinstrap penguins in a rookery, and then landed on a very rocky beach. Barney has to use the walking sticks and hike carefully. He walked toward a sleeping fur seal (keeping his distance and taking photos), then walked toward the other end of the beach where the fur seals were playing with each other, nipping and biting and chest-butting, most seemed to be yearlings. At one point, Barney and a few others were near the water, heard a sound from a seal who wanted to get out of the water where Barney and others were standing, then the seal went down the beach to another spot and went onto the beach, between where Barney needed to go to the Zodiac. Finally the guides had the group move en masse to the Zodiac, finally the seal moved, and they got back to the Zodiac and back to the ship.
We had dinner with the fun Aussie folks, such great conversationalists! We extended an invite to John and Owen to stay with us in the Bay Area some time. John told us the story of how he and Reuben met, and I told him the story of how Barney and I met, and we marveled at the ways that people can connect in the most unexpected ways. We have met some wonderful folks on this trip!
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