For the first time since January 202, we are headed back to Paris. We saved up our points so we could fly business class to Paris (economy on the way back), which was very nice as we could stretch out and sleep. We took a taxi to Catherine’s place where she welcomed us warmly as always. After settling in, we went to Catherine’s favorite bakery, and to a shop nearby for some yogurt and granola for breakfast. Then we went with Catherine to get some transit tickets, and learned when we got on the bus and our tickets were rejected, that there are two different tickets you have to load, one for busses and one for the Metro which is more expensive. The bus driver waved us on, so we rode the 21 to the Latin Quarter and went to the Cluny Museum for a few hours. We walked through the exhibits, so familiar yet always something ew to discover. The heads of the kings of Judah, originally on Notre Dame, were removed after the revolution and rediscovered more than 100 years later in the foundation of a coal market not far from Catherine’s, and they were brought to the then-new medieval museum. Of course we spent some time in my favorite place, with the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which always provide new details and insights. I could have spent hours there, but we needed to keep moving to stay awake.
We headed out in the light rain to Notre Dame, restored and reopened about a year ago. It was still crowded but the line moved quickly. We settled in the part for the faithful in time for the vespers with lovely music, and got to hear the organ. Afterwards we walked around and marveled at the transformation. The interior was now a creamy beige instead of gray, so Lucy lighter and brighter. The polychrome areas have been repainted brightly, and the altar is modern and stunning. Because the sun sets so early, around 5pm, there was no light through the stained glass but we will come back during the daytime another day. We head out into the dark, and pass by a small Christmas market by the Seine with all sorts of little booths, and animal figures like polar bears and penguins surrounded by greenery. Back to the Metro to head back to Catherine’s for a light dinner. She had made spinach and feta in phyllo with some appetizers, and head to bed about 9pm. Although we both woke up few times we managed to sleep until morning.
We woke up about 7am on Saturday morning, made breakfast and chatted about the day. Catherine had plans to see a friend who is recovering from surgery, so off we went to Barney’s favorite museum, the Musée d’Orsay, which houses the Impressionists and related period artists. We visited the early 1860s era artists and the special exhibit of the sculptor Troubetzkoy, who I had not heard of and made heroic bronzes. He was a vegetarian and kept wolves as pets, and made a sculpture of a lamb titled “Why do you want to eat me?”. Then we went up to the 5th floor for a nice light lunch, quiche and salmon salad, and had a nice view out the giant clock. Then off to the many galleries on the 5th floor of the ImpressIronists, so many fabulous and famous painting. The Monet series of Rouen Cathedral, his water lilies, are oil’s gatherings of dancers and families, Callibotte’s famous floor scrapers, and so much more. Near the end of the day, we headed out again in the rain, walking through the festively-decorated neighborhood, to take the bus home. Catherine was tired from her day, so we had leftovers with some soup, had a nice chat, and went to bed early.
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